Monday, 31 August 2015

Single on a July Day: The Croatia Files, pt 2

After an amazing bus ride through the hills (and one incident of the bus overheating), I arrived in my last full stop on this wondrous vacation-- Novalja.

When I planned on coming here it was mainly for the Croatia Rocks festival, but I ended up enjoying the whole city. I stayed at the Moon Rocks Hostel..it was significantly cheaper than the other apartments and I was not into spending a week in a shared room. When you travel alone its painful to have to pay the double occupancy fee...that's money that could be better spent outside of the hostel. 

Moon Rocks is at the top
This hostel  was walking distance from the bus terminal and the city centre and it had a great bar. If I were to go back, I'd hope to stay closer to the city. It gets pretty dark and I like partying late on the shore; it would just be easier to stay there than trek back in the dark.  Plus transit is easy to navigate and inexpensive.

The area is host to several festivals and I was coming in after Fresh Island Festival. I feel like I should have come for that. It seemed to have a great line up of artists! I came for Croatia Rocks instead....I didn't even know the line up when I got there. In fact I had VIP and was not even given a programme...and I refused to buy it.

I think that sums up my Croatia Rocks experience...over paying..well suggestions of  over paying since I did not take the extra bait. I am not sure if it is because it was the first time a Rocks festival came to Croatia or if it was just a poorly organized festival, it was not worth the ticket. Decent experience, but there are free replacements all over Zrce!

Euphoria, it got busier as the night went on
The bus runs all night and you can carry your booze with you. The festival bars cost more than the regular bars and I saw three other places to party. If you are looking for a budget time, I recommend Euphoria. It is right on the beach as you get off the bus. It had cheap liquor and a stripper pole--can't go wrong. The men aren't my cup of tea (way too young, for someone that loves the 40+ crowd), but I know women all over that would love it..you know who you are..Euphoria had an awesome DJ..spinning some mix of 80s/90s to begin with then worked into more modern dancystuff. The bar had mega cocktails for 100k and special shot prices every night...oh and it's no cover and of course no dress code...
Aquarius

Papaya
There were also afternoon pool parties associated with Croatia Rocks. The wristband was supposed to get me into some awesome fun with well known DJs. It was sort of like this. There were only two clubs involved in the whole festival-- Papaya and Aquarius--so only two pool parties associated with the pass. They both had great DJs, but, honestly, only Papaya had a party. The other was a lounge with a wading pool.

If you are travelling to Novalja and do not want to spend money on some music fest, you can still go to the Zrce Beach. There is music all over and you can bring a picnic to the
Snacks and Giant Beer
beach. Plus there are bars and little food kiosks all over. The beach is made of rocks..flipflops  can be painful..but people do it... I recommend some canvas shoe cheapies and bring a yoga mat to sit on. 

City Beach. Such clear water!!!!
There is also a nice quaint beach at the city centre and some great bars over looking the Sea. I spent some time there and socialized with anyone that wanted to speak English. It was nice and a more laid back scene. I walked past another hostel, that I might consider next time around...if I'm still rolling solo. 
Overall an amazing time, despite any festival issues.  
Sunset on my walk from the bus terminal
I'll just note that I put in my complaint and they were taken seriously. It might be helpful for anyone else that had problems to email the sales team: sales@croatiarocks.com. It's the only way they can make improvements.


From here I did a 4h bus ride to Zagreb and then other 30min bus to the airport....then to my last night stay at the Dream Hotel. What an amazing treat this place was!  I was only there for my stop over, until my flight home so I didn't leave the hotel and cannot comment on how close it is to things to do. I enjoyed the restaurant and ate an amazing steak then had an awesome breakfast the next day. The breakfast was included and the airport transport was free. I paid about $80CDN for room and dinner...with wine. Madness!!!
I ate all of this...nom nom
Ferry on the bus ride












 It was a dream vacation, but at some point I had come home...


 YTZ!!!!

Friday, 28 August 2015

Single on a July Day: The Croatia Files, pt 1

After an exhilarating stay in a city I longed to see, it was time to head to the beach. This half of the trip is even more so filled with drinking and partying, but without the full cultural experience. Sometimes you just gotta have fun. 

I spent my time gazing out the windows.
From Sarajevo I hopped two flights to Zadar. Normally I don't fly, but Croatia Airlines had an amazing fare going on Expedia.ca, and money talks when you are travelling alone on a budget! 

SJJ is one of those simple, cute airports. It's easy to navigate and just a few gates take you around the world. Not much to do. There is a duty free shop, but it's best to bring your own entertainment.

I was doing SJJ-ZAG-ZAD and both of my flights were late getting in and out. Apparently this is just what to expect from this airline. I didn't mind; the great service and low price made up for it! 

A little snack during my stopover in ZAG
I arrived in Zadar after 10pm. It was dark and everything was pretty much closed. I already looked things up before so I knew there was a bus and how much it cost and how to get to my hostel, so I wasn't worried about anything.  I grabbed my pack and made my way to the bus...it was pretty full and I think he waited for the flight to get in before departing... pretty decent! 

I was staying the Old Town and it was the last of two stops on the bus. Easy enough. The place was packed still with visitors enjoying their vacation and it was a little after 11pm. I checked in to what I'm going to consider a luxury hostel. As usual, Booking.com was a score. The Boutique Hostel Forum in Zadar was awesome. I think it is important to remember that this comes after the grossness in Novi Sad and the dormitory setting in Sarajevo. I feel like I spoiled myself on this stay.  I had my own room with bathroom and regular cleaning...I loved it. Not really hostel-esk, but single occupancy in a double room was under $50CDN/night....so I guess I can call it a budget hotel..whatever the label, it was great!!

Zadar was a definite good time. I spent my whole time in the Old Town, but I think I should have stayed longer and did more. You can walk the Old Town...you kind of have to since cars are not permitted in most of it. This was great since it was only people traffic that you had to deal with. Plus it was easy to navigate after a few beers...

What to do:
-The Sea Organs (of course!!): The Adriatic Sea feeds into this piece of art and creates music! You just have to go.
-Swim in the sea: I liked sitting by it and smelling that sea like odour that cannot be captured in a room freshener. I saw people jumping in and there was a shallow section for kids to walk around in.
-The Greeting to the Sun: Another wonderful piece of art. It lights up and is very nice to see at sunset or night.
I saw these growing out of rocks by the waterside
-Drink Maraschino: I haven't steered you wrong so far in the booze department so I'm not even going to explain this one...just do it!
-Walk around/take a tour: I'm a firm believer in wondering around, taking it all it in. Or have someone take you around. It was not a big town. I didn't get lost and if I felt lost I just kept going...eventually I saw a building that I recognized.
The lackadaisical life of solo vacationing....

I took in the Museum of Archeology.. ...after a few beers at the Boutique Caffe Forum-- oddly enough it is connected to my hotel, but no discounts were given. Whatever, it's not like it was that expensive to drink...15k for a Tomislav .5l...wonderful!
7.3% and didn't taste like a dark beer  
As usual my trip had some music involved...Havana Club put on a promotion with live band! Smart move since Manu Chao was playing there the next night. That really wasn't the highlight of the trip though....on my second night, I met a cool local and chilled on the pier facing the Adriatic Sea drinking beer from a 2L bottle...that's how it comes...in the convenience store...and they give you cups. Then you relax and enjoy the coast. 
Breath taking....just remember to clean up after yourdamnself!  There were a lot of bottles around and the person I was with outright said that it was probably tourists....of course it is. Not all tourists, but some just see every part of their trip like it's a hotel...someone else will pick up after them.
Folks remember: take pictures, leave footprints....not: take advantage and leave garbage!!
I wish I could have captured the scent!
Well a couple of days of luxury was all that I had...then it was a 1.5h bus ride to Novalja for the final stop on this grand vacation.  










Tuesday, 11 August 2015

Single on a July Day: Part 2, Exit Festing (NoviSad)

Well after my short time in Belgrade I had to make my way to Novi Sad...I had a ticket for Exit Festival!!!! This is where things get fun. The lady at the counter did not speak English and my Serbian isn' t any better. I made great use of sign language and what I hoped was the correct schedule. I bought what I hoped was a one way ticket and got on a train that I figured was going to the right place.

Solo travel at its best!
This is the old train...used for other cities 


Two hours later I was in Novi Sad. The trip was in a great new train, but the tracks are still old so it was not any faster, just way more comfy...and had air conditioning which was a plus with the +36C degree weather.

Once I arrived at the train station there were volunteers from the festival helping people get to their destination. Now this is where I give two pieces of important advice...1) don't bother with the bus pass;  2) If you are a solo traveller on a budget do not book through Exit Trip (unless you are booking camping).

As for #1, they sell you on the bus pass because it is more convenient than trying to pay on the bus, but it really is not necessary. Everything I needed was in walking distance...including the festival.

The shower curtain..one on each side
And #2....I was told by representative (by email) that  I had to book a whole room even if I was traveling alone. This meant that I was paying double, but got the whole room to myself. So it was a budget conscious decision for me to go with the cheapest place. Bad idea!! Horrible....no WiFi, no cleaning, very basic amenities. A true hostel...but was apparently student housing for a tech program. The shower was open to two room areas and when I told the guy that was showing me to my room that it was unacceptable he said it was nothing to worry about and continued. Hahaha....I know better now. Next time I'll just do a little extra research and not trust the website; too bad their ad could not just say: "this place is filthy and ill equipped". (Booking.com helped me out with the other places, I'll keep them in mind for my next Exit Adventure.)

On a positive note, it was a good place to meet other people since everyone around was either a student or a visitor down for Exit.

Me and the rules for entry

Exit Festival was a first of its kind for me...a night time festival. I've done raves, but a full on festival at night....that was  different. I loved it. It was 8pm- 8am and I was usually there from 10pm-4am...that's the perfect time of day for me. The weather was more bearable and I simply prefer the night time.

There were 10 stages and all sorts of awesomeness. Plus it was held in fortress!! The party atmosphere was insane; DJs and bands all over an historical fort and let's not forget about 100 000 people were there each night. It was a great experience that I wish I could afford to do again next year. So many highlights: Faithless, Roni Size Reprezent, the whole No Sleep zone, silent disco, Manu Chau, giant slide, opening night fireworks...and much more.  I walked to and from the event and had no issues with safety or directions since Novi Sad is easy to navigate and my map memory is pretty good.

The city itself was very nice beyond the festival. Once again great prices for food and drink and great places to chill. Since my crappy accommodations did not have WiFi (so odd!!), I was advised by the ExitTrip people to go across the street to the mall and find a restaurant there. It worked out for the best since I ended up hanging out at cool place called Babylon in the SPENS. I walked in and asked if they had food, booze and Internet...they had booze and Internet and that was good enough for me.

My time at Babylon begins on a Thursday. The festival did not start until Friday so I needed a night of boozing. This is where the rakija enters the vacation. To compensate for the no food issues I had fast food across the way at Minuta....
It's all about cheap and fast
after a few beers....then I asked for rakija and the waitress was shocked and pleased.

Now from this point it is a routine of beers and different types of rakija and glasses of water along with laughs and failed language lessons . It was nice to feel welcome and, since I was alone, there was no pressure to stay or to go. I crawled back into my single bed at the residence around 7:30am....I swear that rakija shit is like red bull....I didn't get sick, just stayed awake until I was horizontal...then it was sleep time.

I did some visiting and more drinking during my few days in Novi Sad, but as I said this was a whirlwind vacation. I think I'll need to go back and stay for a few days after or before Exit Fest. I'd definitely do Exit again!

If you're making plans here are my recommendations:

Get the early bird ticket and make sure you have a hotel/hostel/apartment booked by February. The prices go up and the city sells out. You can always do the camp thing...not my thing, but I heard it was pretty clean and close to the beach.

Also, there is a secondary festival in Montenegro-- Sea Dance. If you buy your Exit ticket early enough you can get into this festival quite inexpensively. I did not go, but I saw pictures....awesome time. I might do it next year...if I can afford to get back to that side of the world!


On to the next stop....
This was one of the stops on my 9h bus ride to Sarajevo





Monday, 3 August 2015

Single on a July Day: Part 1, Belgrade

I felt like getting out of town this summer and for three weeks I partied and toured my butt off!! It's always fun to see other cities!

The trip starts with Serbia-- Belgrade and Novi Sad.  I gotta say Belgrade is party central. Talk about a city that never sleeps!!! Or cools down... It was in the high 30's the whole time I was there... Even got to 40 at one point. I was told that it was unusually hot this summer. I'm sure being surrounded by concrete didn't help, though.

Getting from the airport to the city was easy; there is a bus right to the city centre. The bus itself was hard to find, but the info desk was very helpful. The upside of traveling alone is that I can just take my time and figure it out. This bus ride down was not bad and it was pretty inexpensive. I stayed at an awesome little hostel--Hostel Home Sweet Home. It was a little difficult to find..once I found the street I still had to walk a fair bit up and down before I saw the tiniest sign on a hidden entrance way.
The view from my terrace...yes, terrace.

The hostel was awesome. It was great start to the trip. Friendly staff, a fully stocked kitchen and dining area and a\c in the living room and some of the bed rooms. I had a terrace, which would have been OK if it wasn't so hot!!!!!!! During the day I locked my items up and left the door open for cooling. I didn't have any issues.



Hamburger and Beer
Key things to do:
1) Take the free walking tour!!! Belgradewalkingtours.com
-the guide is a local and they provide a great history lesson as you see the sites of Belgrade. Make sure you're wearing good walking shoes, my tour was about 2.5 hours. After which I settled down in Skadarska for lunch... Delicious lunch.
2) Drink beer and/or Rakjia
-the two local beer suggestions are Jelen and Lav..I didn't have Lav until Novi Sad so I'm suggesting Jelen at this point. Drinking there is pretty inexpensive when you have a Canadian paycheck. 2 beers and a 20% tip came to approx. $4.65 CDN!!! -Rakjia is a tasty brandy-esk beverage. A lot of people make it at home.. Just ask at a bar. I got into my rakija times in Novi Sad.. So stay tuned..
3) Wonder
-This is a no-brainer. I grabbed simple directions and a map from my hosts and wondered through the city. There is a lot of cool historic buildings and graffiti around--Something that is totally missing from the gentrified Toronto.
4) Stay out late
-I was tired by 1am.. Most likely due to walking in the heat.. But as I said, this city doesn't sleep. I could hear the party going all night! If I could move, I would have continued.

I think this encapsulates enough of my few days in Belgrade, well there is more...but I'd need my own TV show for that ;) Now to go north....

Waiting for the train to Novi Sad